Day 2 of “the walk”…I was awake before 5 (and greeted with coffee/tea and hot water to wash up) and we were on the trail around 7 AM. After we passed an official camp stop in the morning, we got to experience what Jonathan called the “gringo killer” before and after lunch, until we made it to Dead Woman’s Pass. Yes that is what it is called — supposedly because of the shape of the mountains from the distance, not because women have died tried to climb up to it (just in case you were wondering). A headache was a gentle reminder of the altitude (13,828 feet [4,215 m]). The afternoon was all about putting one foot in front of the other, taking frequent breaks to hydrate and check out the views, and getting to the pass. It was all downhill after that, and very exciting to see the REI sign at the campsite at the end of the day.
Does it look like I’m holding on for dear life? I think I was…
Trail blocker
Breakfast…if only I had time for a multi-course breakfast every day!
Popped amarinth + quinoa that I mixed with peach yogurt, mini sandwiches with ham or turkey, and cheese, and then barley porridge with fresh banana.
Breakfast spread
Popped amarinth and quinoa with peach yogurt
Lunch:
Made it to lunch ~11:50 AM. Fresh passion fruit juice awaited us. Lunch was corn soup (cheese cubes, egg, herbs), trout picked up at the trout farm we passed on the way up, mashed potatoes with cheese cubes, apple crunch.
Fresh trout with mashed potatoes and vegetables
Tea time!
Dinner was delicious, as always: chicken vegetable soup, pasta with chicken and vegetables, and black corn pudding with prunes which was supposed to help with digestion and keep us warm.
As I was packing for my second hiking trip with REI Adventures last month, I came across my journal from last year’s trek to Machu Picchu and finally decided to write something. It’s been over a year now, and I still consider it a “bucket list,” once in a lifetime experience. I also still remember how hard it was…dealing with some serious altitude, navigating travel with a group, camping (ok, glamping), not showering for four days, and then of course, the hiking part.
Our group consisted of two girls from Chicago (Kelly and Julia), two girls from Boston (Julie and me), a guide (Jonathan), two cooks, and eight porters. An embarrassment of riches in terms of support, but we were told that is a requirement for the trail (aka you can’t go without porters). The porters are allowed to carry a maximum of 50 pounds on their backs, and each day they will run past you on the trail while wearing worn out sandals. Humbling.
I thought I’d share some excerpts from my journal…unedited, for your reading pleasure. And if it doesn’t make sense or sounds bananas, well then, I blame the altitude.
June 1 (Day 1 on the trail)
Morning (last shower!), meeting Miguel and Santiago (cook and assistant cook), and observing a political protest:
Stopped in Ollantaytambo to use restroom and pick up last minute stuff at market (Miguel/Santi). Socialist protest in square trying to get people not to vote (elections are June 5; if 30% don’t vote, then there has to be a re-election. Voting is mandatory).
Day 1, still clean and ready to go
Lunch break:
Stopped for lunch ~1:30-2 at Tarayoc — felt so spoiled. They greeted us with lemonade and there was a tent set up for us to have a 3-course lunch (our napkins were folded into swans)…salad with fava beans, corn, and cheese; Peruvian beef with rice and fried potatoes; “fruit soup” for dessert. So delicious, and amazing that the porters could carry all this stuff! Our waiter wore a vest!
First course, fresh veggies!
Arriving at our camp site for the evening:
The toilet tent is interesting — not the worst I’ve ever used (that would be the squat toiled in Beijing). Low to the ground and kind of awkward.
Tea team — pound cake, cheese slices, and elderberry jam and cream cheese sandwiches. We see the porters going into our tents — they left us presents. A basket with 4 lucky seeds, bug spray, body cream, lip balm, and tissues. And a chocolate on our sleeping bag.
Glamping at its finest
After dinner:
Sat out under the stars drinking tea. I’ve never seen stars like this before. Could see the Southern Cross (kite-shaped) and the Milky Way. Makes you feel so small and insignificant.
Then we got hot water bottles to take to sleep with us — “this is your baby.”
Am nervous about tomorrow’s hike. Hardest day and we are climbing ~4K feet. Up at 5:15 am to get an early start.
Body check: no blisters, all feels good. Fingers crossed it stays that way.