Hello summer! For June we went to La Brasa, which was included on Food & Wine magazine’s May list of 8 Amazing New Grill Restaurants. Can you think of a better way to welcome summer?
La Brasa opened in late April, though it has been in the works for two years (and a dream for 15 years according to our server, Shyne). It is headed up by Chef Daniel Bojorquez and Chef Frank McLelland. It is not just a “Peruvian chicken” restaurant. The major unifying theme here is the grill. Everything is cooked over an open flame. And even the name, la brasa, means “ember” in Spanish. And yes, our adorable server’s name was Shyne, with a “y” according to my receipt.
It is a big space with big windows, good music (a lot of old school rap, so not everyone is likely to have the same opinion about the music), and comfortable bar stools. Claire liked the way it smelled. No one was a fan of the corporate bathroom…I did not experience it but I heard there was a fear of not being able to find the way back to the restaurant. There is also a market next store where some goat milk caramels and honey were acquired. Apparently the honey is from a protected bee colony in Somerville (or something like that). They also serve “drinks on tap” and a “Paloma for four”, which we ordered times two for the table. Mark appreciated the strong carbonation (crisp! effervescent!) and the proportions.
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| Meat cart! |
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| Rib roast |
I’m not sure how often they change or update the menu, but there were two handwritten additions: soft shell crab and an oyster po’ boy. We ordered both for the table to share as an appetizer. Of course whenever I see an oyster po’ boy on a menu, I can’t help but think of the amazing oyster slider at Island Creek Oyster Bar. They set a high bar over there. This oyster po’ boy was for sure not a slider – it came on a brioche bun and had some thick slices of crispy bacon. The soft shell crab came with chorizo and black eyed peas. We also ordered the Swiss chard pie (with Colorado chile, coddled farm fresh egg, Spanish ham, and piperade) as a starter, which is listed under “Vegetables” on the menu and was a Shyne recommendation.
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| Hanger steak |
For my entree, I was leaning toward the barbecued beef brisket (with charred green tomatillo barbeque sauce), but when two other people at the table ordered that, I changed my mind and decided to go with the La Brasa fried chicken (with escargot-brown butter vinaigrette, parsley and horseradish). Definitely a good decision…it was probably my favorite dish, and one of the most memorable as I think back on the meal. The pork milanese (which was bone-in and served with mushy peas) was a favorite for some people, as well as watercress salad in siracha vinaigrette with coriander and egg noodles, and the meat cart. The meat cart was table-side rib roast priced at $3.50 an ounce. Kim asked for 6 ounces, and he just happened to cut 9 ounces…which we took anyway. It was served with cilantro chimichurri and a veal demi-glace red wine reduction. The cilantro chimichurri was amazing…we had to ask for more! Btw, this whole cart thing must be the new hip thing to do at restaurants.
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| Fried chicken |
Lucky for us we got to try all of the beef dishes when a skirt steak (marinated in soy with snap peas, baby lettuces, and salmon roe) that we didn’t order arrived at our table disguised as the hanger steak. Ok, it was not really disguised, but Shyne told us it was the hanger steak so we dug in….whoops that was supposed to go to another table. I also enjoyed the grilled hanger steak (with tecate-braised farro and roasted green garlic) and the barbecued beef brisket that I came so close to ordering.
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| Watercress with “egg noodles” |
Unfortunately, the desserts were underwhelming. We tried the butterscotch pudding (not very butterscotch-y), the triple cheese cheesecake with spiced stone fruit, and the market sweet-treats. The sweet treats were probably the best, and included a goat milk caramel, strawberry licorice, dark chocolate, and some sort of cookie.
Overall it was a great meal; great choice Kim! According to the wisdom of Julie, “The drinks were cold. The food was hot. Love that.” And Shyne shone…he was super fun to chat with and made great recommendations.
The damage
$90 per person
The rundown
La Brasa
124 Broadway, Somerville
@LaBrasaBoston
Kara Cooks and Eats 